A true Southern belle, Savannah, GA has been luring visitors with her abundant charms for almost three centuries. General James Oglethorpe of England was the first to fall under her spell. In 1733, he journeyed to this halcyon, Spanish moss-draped spot on Georgia’s northern coast to establish what would become America’s first planned city. It was Oglethorpe who, in strategic military fashion, conceived the ingenious grid-like foundation on which Savannah is laid, with 24 squares providing balance, structure and beauty.

Today, Savannah’s fabled squares draw legions of tourists. These lush, magnolia-scented green spaces embody the city’s ethereal mood. Each is surrounded by mansions and townhouses built by long-ago cotton barons and shipping moguls. While all are adorned with the de rigueur fountain or monument, their real individuality lies in the historic edifices that frame them. Monterey Square is known for ivory-columned Mercer Williams House, the elegant manse that figured in the mega-bestseller Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil; Columbia Square boasts the austere Isaiah Davenport House, erected in 1820 and celebrated as one of the South’s finest examples of Georgian architecture; Madison Square is all about Green-Meldrim House, the Gothic-style gem where General William Tecumseh Sherman stayed when his Union troops occupied Savannah in 1864; and so on. To linger in a Savannah square is to marvel at the cantilevered staircases, jalousied porches and sweeping piazzas bounded by ornate grillwork and ballustrades.

Stroll through living history

Although Savannah has gracefully moved into the 21st century, accumulating all the hallmarks of a contemporary urban hub—from trendy restaurants to stylish condos and hotels—its rich history is still the main attraction. People can’t get enough of the mystique of the Old South, and Savannah has it in spades.

To a large extent, this city’s original architectural masterpieces (1,100 have survived) were made possible by Dixie’s storied crop: cotton. Between 1820 and 1890, when cotton was king, Savannah’s flourishing market determined the world price of what was often referred to as ‘white gold.’ A lot of folks got very wealthy very quickly. Splendid homes were built with a vengeance, many of which—filled with furnishings from a more refined era—are now open for tours.

The aura of yesteryear is especially visible on Factor’s Walk, a ballast-paved alley skirting the Savannah River, where farmers once steered horse-drawn buggies heaped with cotton. On hand to meet them were cotton brokers (or factors), who evaluated the quality of their yields. Nearby, on cobbled River Street—where immense cargo ships from foreign climes routinely drop anchor—the stark warehouses that once stored mammoth bales of cotton have been converted into eateries, shops and inns, reflecting the blend of old and new that makes this thriving port so irresistible.

Fringed by piney woods, marshes and a tangle of lazy inlets, Savannah stretches seductively over a coastal plain some 18 miles from the Atlantic. Two hours to the north is Charleston, S.C., until recently the city’s vastly more extroverted and popular older sister. In 1994, something amazing happened to Savannah, something that brought this introverted, secluded city out of its shell and onto the world stage. That was the year Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil was published.

A riveting account of a scandalous murder that took place in one of the town’s most elegant historic mansions, Midnight, written by New Yorker John Berendt, was ultimately made into a movie directed by Clint Eastwood. The effect it had on local commerce and the overall image of the city was astounding. Suddenly, Savannah was a white-hot tourist magnet; people from around the globe streamed in, eager to immerse themselves in the atmospheric setting that had captured the imagination of millions of readers.

The dramatic increase in tourism spawned new restaurants, inns and boutiques, not to mention a huge souvenir trade. Around every corner were signs of the Midnight phenomenon; shop windows displayed maps, videos, T-shirts, mugs, candles, posters, paintings, postcards, bookmarks, fans and pins depicting scenes and landmarks from the book. There were even Christmas tree ornaments embellished with Midnight symbols.

Mercer Williams House itself—the scene of the Midnight murder—was eventually opened for the book’s insatiable fans. A tour of this remarkable mansion is a must for anyone who appreciates fine architecture. The mansion was built just after the Civil War for the great-grandfather of songwriter Johnny Mercer and restored by antiques dealer Jim Williams, Midnight’s darkly handsome central figure. It is in its full glory in spring, when the ivory columns that flank the imposing entrance are entwined with wisteria. The tour provides visitors with the chilling experience of witnessing the scene of an infamous crime, as well as an intimate glimpse into Savannah’s old-guard lifestyle, brimming with rare antiques and art treasures. In more recent times, the carriage house behind the mansion was transformed into a gift shop overflowing with all things Southern—from pralines to sweetgrass baskets.

That Savannah became the backdrop for an international bestseller was only natural, perhaps inevitable. Here was a writer’s dream setting, full of aesthetics (and not a few eccentrics), a city John Berendt has called “luscious.” Indeed, the unique beauty and deep gentility described by the author saved Savannah from ruin during the Civil War. In the winter of 1864, after torching Atlanta, General Sherman and his troops made their way to Savannah, intent on conquest. As they approached the city, Savannah’s mayor rode out to meet them, offering unconditional surrender. The general, who lodged at a local private residence for several weeks, was instantly charmed by his surroundings. Immediately after settling in, he wired President Lincoln, announcing, “I beg to present to you as a Christmas gift, the City of Savannah.”

One hundred and forty-four years later, the queen of coastal Georgia has much to offer vacationers and residents alike. For those who live in Savannah, entertaining out-of-town guests is as easy as pecan pie. Dining and shopping options abound, as do sporting activities. And there’s all that incredible history to explore. Known as ‘America’s Most Haunted City,’ Savannah has more than two dozen ghost tours…guaranteed to produce goosebumps.

A Feast for All

But food is the city’s biggest enticement. From grits to crème brulée, the menu choices are infinite. The most famous bistro in town is The Lady & Sons, located in a lively, historic quadrant called City Market. Owned by Food Network diva and Savannah celebrity Paula Deen (along with her two sons), this laid-back eatery is undeniably touristy, but the classic Southern fare—like crab-stuffed shrimp and hush puppies—is as authentic as it gets.

A few blocks away, in the Victorian District, a Greek revival mansion is home to the nationally-acclaimed and very gourmet Elizabeth on 37th, where Chef Kelly Yambor creates inventive Southern-with-a-twist dishes such as black-eyed pea patty with greens and curry cream. At The Olde Pink House Restaurant, housed in the city’s only remaining 18th-century building, candlelight, fresh flowers and crisp white linen set the tone for a romantic dinner, which might include scored flounder in apricot-shallot sauce. For a more hip, urban atmosphere, there’s Sapphire Grill, the domain of Chef Christopher J. Nason, who serves up imaginative Southern viands using fresh, local organic ingredients.

Life at Night

For after-hours revelry, there’s only one thing to do in Savannah: Go Irish. Savannah hosts the second-largest St. Patrick’s Day parade in the nation and many of its residents have deep roots in the Emerald Isle, so it’s no surprise that the city has a surfeit of Irish pubs, the best of which are McDonough’s (a Savannah institution, where Guinness flows like tap water) and Kevin Barry’s Irish Pub, which features Irish folk singers every night; grab a pint and a seat on the River Watch Balcony to take in the late-night merriment on River Street.

Treasure Hunting

Among the stand-out venues for retail therapy: Melonie’s, stocked with Confederate artifacts, Southern-themed decorative items (such as magnolia-emblazoned teapots) and lace parasols for wannabe belles; Southern Antiques & Interiors, an enormous showroom filled with antique and reproduction furniture, fine art and exquisite porcelain pieces—many items are from the homes of Savannah’s aristocracy; and The Jack Leigh Gallery, a showcase of evocative black-and-white images of the Low Country captured by the lens of the late Jack Leigh. Savannah’s best-known photographer, Leigh is renowned for his photo of the Bird Girl statue on the cover of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

Southern Hospitality is “Inn”

Savannah’s hospitality scene is defined by cozy inns redolent of the city’s past. The most elegant is The Gastonian. Composed of two striking Regency-Italianate mansions built in 1868, this superb lodge soothes with mellow charm and ambrosial breakfasts. Its 17 rooms are furnished with English antiques and canopy beds, and each has a working fireplace and a capacious bath with claw-footed tub. A favorite afternoon indulgence: strolling through the fragrant garden courtyard.

Another top-drawer choice is the Ballastone Inn, a onetime mayoral residence that has also seen duty as a boarding house and a bordello. This 150-year-old antiques-filled treasure has 16 rooms with distinct themes. Rhett’s Retreat, for example, is a snug, ultra-masculine atelier decorated with vintage maps and commanding portraits of Civil War generals. If the inn’s elaborate afternoon tea doesn’t revive you after a day of shopping and sightseeing, there’s always the cocktail hour, complete with fine wines and hors d’oeuvres.

The newest and most luxurious place to stay is Mansion on Forsyth Park, which is more Manhattan than Savannah. Indeed, there is nothing Old South about this gorgeous, 126-room hotel. Its chic, sophisticated style (the lobby is furnished by Versace and the halls are adorned with the works of the world’s leading abstract artists) is such a departure from the quaint antebellum inns that have been welcoming out-of-towners for decades that it has all of Savannah talking. Amenities include a restaurant with numerous alcoves for private dining, the aqua-hued Poseidon Spa and a marbled courtyard with intimate pool. Every guest room has a flat-screen television and a faux-mink throw draped across a sumptuous bed.

If you prefer big resort hotels with all the trimmings, the Westin Savannah Harbor Golf Resort & Spa is just the ticket. A lavish, impeccably manicured complex with a sleek, towering hotel overlooking the Savannah River, this eight-year-old property features a championship 18-hole golf course designed by Bob Cupp and Sam Snead and the Greenbrier Spa—a scaled-down version of West Virginia’s famed Greenbrier Spa (think lots of white wicker and bold florals). The spa menu is extensive. For an après-golf refresher, consider the exfoliating Lemon-Sugar Body Souffle, which transforms dry, sun-damaged skin into satin.

A Day at the Beach

While Savannah proper revolves largely around historic mansions and oak-studded squares, an entirely different ambience awaits on Tybee Island, 18 miles to the east. An idyllic day trip, Tybee—long known as “Savannah’s beach”—is a breezy, sleepy dollop of sand dotted with cottages dating to the 1920s and seafood shacks where the dress code is bare feet and T-shirts. A seemingly endless pier invites visitors to drop a line and there’s a lighthouse, too—the oldest and tallest in Georgia.

Community Living

Savannah’s growth and increased visibility have inspired a broad range of residential developments, many of which are ultra-groomed, gated enclaves that attract prospective home buyers with a vast array of leisure pursuits, from boating to nature hikes. Among the more mature communities in this category is The Landings, tucked away on lovely Skidaway Island. The Landings has long been one of Savannah’s most coveted addresses, offering beautiful custom homes and choice homesites set amid marshes and cascades of Spanish moss, as well as an unrivaled community spirit and bonhomie. The residents of this oasis always have a full social calendar, thanks to an incredibly diverse assortment of groups and organizations, from the Italian Heritage Club to The Landings Writer’s Club. There’s even a Scrabble club and a club devoted to single golfers.

Outdoorsy types have a dizzying selection to choose from: two deep-water marinas, 34 Har-Tru tennis courts, four swimming pools, 40 miles of paved walking and biking trails, a dog park for those essential romps with Fido and—most impressive of all—six golf courses designed by such legends as Arnold Palmer and Tom Fazio.

“The total amenity package on The Landings is second to no other community,” says Matt Murphy, who, with his wife Terry, has been a resident since 1996. “Some other complexes may brag about a ‘great championship golf course’ or an ‘unbelievable marina,’ but The Landings has it all. I have friends in Naples who live in communities with one golf course. I can’t imagine how monotonous that would be, playing the same course three or four days a week. The variety of our courses is very special and each is a great challenge.”

Ten miles west of downtown Savannah is Southbridge, a newer, equally tony community. Carved from 1,400 acres of woodlands, lakes and lagoons, Southbridge emphasizes family life. A state-of-the-art playground nestles in a grove of pines and oaks, a resort-style pool with waterslide is a hit with youngsters and special family-themed events are planned throughout the year, including a gigantic Easter egg hunt, picnics and potluck dinners. The crown jewels of this tranquil enclave: an elaborately equipped two-story day spa and fitness center and 18 flawless fairways designed by renowned golf course architect Rees Jones.

Most impressive is Southbridge’s wide variety of homes, ranging in price from $250,000 to $1 million-plus. There is a vital lifestyle for every age group—from kids to fast-track professionals to retirees. The broad residential spectrum includes cottages, maintenance-free villas, executive-sized homes and estate manors—most of which overlook sweeping vistas of the velvety golf course or a lazy lagoon with gliding ducks and strutting egrets. You can drink in the beauty of Southbridge while savoring fine wine and an excellent repast at the community’s handsome restaurant—Vickery’s Tavern—where huge floor-to-ceiling windows provide views of surrounding woodlands.

At the still-evolving Savannah Quarters, a sylvan, 2,600-acre community 12 miles west of the city’s historic district, the deep serenity is interrupted only by the thwack of golf balls. A signature Greg Norman golf course meanders throughout Westbrook, the development’s primary subdivision, which envelops cottages, condominiums and majestic homes straight out of Architectural Digest. The sense of privacy is accentuated by the fact that all homesites (of which there are only 75) are sized from 1/2 an acre. Enhancing Westbrook’s neighborly mood is the Village Square, a warm and friendly cluster of fashionable boutiques, Internet cafes and convenience stores, where shopkeepers know residents’ first names and greet them accordingly.

Westbrook’s neighborliness and eclectic mix of residents have made John and Amy Paletta feel that they have found their forever home. “As nice as Westbrook’s amenities are, the best part of living at Savannah Quarters is not the pool or the waterslide or the great meals at the grille or the golf course or even the wonderful house we’re blessed to live in,” says John. “The best part is the people. We all come from different places and have very different life experiences and it is those very differences that we appreciate most. We have never spent so much time with neighbors before, and they have truly become like family to us.”

The ultimate in carefree, luxurious living might well be found south of Savannah, in the upscale suburb of Richmond Hill, where the very new River Oaks tempts potential buyers with spacious condominiums (up to 3,143 square feet) that require no yard work—indeed, no exterior maintenance whatsoever. Set among ancient live oaks and beautifully landscaped grounds along the banks of the winding Ogeechee River, the stately, brick River Oaks villas feature cherry cabinets, stainless steel appliances and sunrooms that encourage reading a good book followed by an afternoon nap. The sound of the rippling river, where cargoes of cotton and lumber were once ferried, could lull even an incurable insomniac into a blissful slumber.

A Savannah Treasure

Housed in an ornate neoclassical Regency mansion built in 1875, the oldest art museum in the South—the Telfair Museum of Art—is as cherished as Savannah’s squares. Its permanent collection features 4,500 works from the U.S., Europe and Asia, and it has become the permanent home of the iconic ‘Bird Girl’ statue (of Midnight fame), which was moved to the museum from the city’s gothic Bonaventure Cemetery.

Designed by English architect William Jay, the mansion was constructed as a private residence for Alexander Telfair, whose father, Edward Telfair, was governor of Georgia and a Revolutionary War patriot. Alexander’s daughter Mary, a highly educated and culturally minded woman who never married, was the last of the Telfair line. It was her idea to convert the mansion into an art museum, which she bequeathed to the City. Touring this elegant edifice provides a visual feast as well as insights into the lifestyle of Savannah’s earliest prominent citizens. The downstairs kitchen, where family meals were prepared by servants, has been faithfully preserved.

In 2006, the Telfair’s decidedly more contemporary, light-filled addition—the Jepson Center for the Arts—was unveiled, winning accolades for the architect, Moshe Safdie. The Jepson Center greatly expands the Telfair’s gallery space, spotlighting numerous traveling exhibitions and 20th- and 21st-century art. (121 Barnard St., 912-790-8800, www.telfair.org)